New Rider Information
Introduction
Competitive Trail Riding (CTR) and Endurance are two distinct disciplines of distance riding.
Competitive trail riding is a strategy sport.
The objective is to bring your horse back in the same condition he left after negotiating
a measured
course in a set amount of time. Horses are examined before, during, and after
the ride. Points are deducted for any
changes that have occurred
including pulse elevation, lameness, pain, fatigue, tack rubs, interference
marks, etc. Points are
also are deducted for coming in
earlier or later than the time set by ride management to complete the course.
Competitive trail
rides are sanctioned by the
governing organization for the particular region in which you are competing.
Until you become
familiar with the different
governing bodies and their respective regions you should ask the ride manager
what governing body
you will be riding under and
review the rules before the ride. The sanctioning bodies determine how the ride
is to be run and
judged. The six governing bodies
in the US are OAATS, UMECRA, ECTRA, SEDRA, MOTDRA, and NATRC. Competitive trail
rides vary in
length but are usually 25 to 40 miles in one day, with novice rides of 12 to 20
miles in a day. The pace for
competitive trail riding usually
averages around 4 to 7 miles an hour. This pace and emphasis on condition of
the horse make
competitive trail riding an
excellent tool for riders new to the distance riding sports.
Endurance
riding is a controlled race, all horses start at the same time and are placed
as they cross the finish line. However all
horses must pass a series of
stringent veterinary inspections or "holds" along the way as well as
pass a veterinary exam at the
finish. A horse failing any of
these exams is immediately disqualified from competition. All endurance rides
held on the North
American continent are governed by
AERC (American Endurance Ride Conference). Endurance rides range from 50 to 100 miles in a day
with novice rides (Limited Distance in endurance) being 25 to 35 miles in
length. Successful endurance horses
are easily capable of maintaining
a 10 to 12 hour pace. There is no minimum time for an endurance ride however,
all distances
must be completed at a minimum
speed of 4.17 mph including all holds. (25 miles in 6 hours, 50 in 12 hours,
etc).
See the list of organization and clubs included in this information for their full names and contact information.
We will be focusing mainly on the rules and
strategies for competitive trail riding in the following pages, although the
suggestions
for preparation of the equine
apply equally well to other distance riding sports. Endurance, Ride & Tie
(1 horse, 2 riders take
turns riding and running over a
set distance), and CMO (competitive mounted orienteering - teams of riders find
hidden targets
using compass readings and clues)
all have different rules and different strategies.
In endurance,
competitive trail and ride & tie, horses are stopped along the way for
veterinary evaluation to make sure the horse is fit to continue. Lameness,
high pulse, or metabolic distress are some of the reasons a horse may be pulled
in the middle of a
ride.
The rider is ultimately responsible for the
welfare of the horse and for knowing the rules under which they are competing.
The
vets and lay judges (seen in competitive
trail) are there for scoring but also to help you finish if possible. Their
first responsibility
is the welfare of the horse; if
you have questions or concerns bring them up right away rather than hope the
problem will be
missed. After all, there will
always be another ride.
Getting Ready
Most
competitive rides are ridden at a 4 - 7 mph pace - this means a steady working
trot for most horses. This also means you'll
have to spend some time
conditioning your horse for the speed and distance required. Most rides,
including OAATS sanctioned
rides, require the horse to be at
least 4 years of age before starting competition. Endurance allows 4 year olds
to compete in
limited distance rides (25 to 35
miles per 2004 AERC rules) but a horse must be 5 or older to compete in longer
rides.
Fitness isn't the only thing you'll have to
work on before your first ride. To be safe for you and everyone else involved,
your
horse should trot (or gait) willingly in hand
and stand quietly for exam - including examination of the mouth, having all 4
legs
picked up, and having his temperature taken.
You should be able to be rate your horse while riding in a group - that means
he should still be under control when other
horses leave him, catch up to him, or pass him on the trail. Camping is another
must,
whether the horse is in a portable corral,
tied to a trailer or picket line, he should be exposed to camping before you
come to
your first ride. Get him used to
eating and drinking away from home and having lots of activity around him.
So, how do we get ready? Miles, miles, miles!
The pace on competitive trail rides (CTR) is set for mostly trotting. Even if
your
ultimate goal is endurance, a year or two of
CTR will allow your horse the time to develop the ligament and bone strength
needed for
the longer and faster paces of endurance. You will also get a more thorough
exam and learn how to rate your horse
while riding CTR.
It takes 4-6 weeks to get a horse's heart
and lungs in shape to go 15-25 miles (a common starting point) and 6-8 weeks
for
muscles to respond. However, it takes an
average of 2 YEARS for
ligaments, tendons and bones to respond to the demands being put on them. This
means that pushing your horse too fast in the first two years can mean career
limiting lameness problems. Your
horse will probably want to speed
up as he gets in shape and you'll be tempted to take him on longer and faster
rides -
remember, he's the brawn and you're the
brains in this team, ride wisely and you'll have a long, happy career as a
team.
Time on horseback is more important than
speed during early training. Remember to start slow - skin and muscles have to toughen up in
response to having a saddle and rider. Hikers can relate to having a new
backpack or new shoes and having to
get used to them when first
starting to hike regularly.
Once your horse is in shape, it doesn't take
as much time to keep him there. Here's just one example of a slow leg-up
schedule
for a pleasure horse that's ridden
regularly but hasn't done any distance work before. There are many schedules
available, pick
one that fits your schedule and
your horse's fitness level. The numbers represent total number of miles trotted
- it doesn't matter
how much you walk in between so
feel free to trot 1/4 mile, then walk, then trot again, whatever your horse can
handle.
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
1 |
1 |
1 |
Off | 2 |
1 |
2 |
|
2 |
1 |
2 |
Off | 2 |
3 |
4 |
|
3 |
1 |
2 |
Off | 1 |
3 |
4 |
|
5 |
3 |
2 |
Off | 4 |
5 |
6 |
|
6 |
4 |
3 |
Off | 4 |
6 |
7 |
|
7 |
5 |
3 |
Off | 4 |
6 |
8 |
|
6 |
4 |
2 |
Off | 6 |
7 |
9 |
|
6 |
4 |
4 |
Off | 5 |
8 |
10 |
|
8 |
6 |
4 |
Off | 7 |
9 |
11 |
|
9 |
7 |
5 |
Off | 8 |
10 |
12 |
|
10 |
8 |
6 |
Off | 10 |
8 |
12 |
|
12 |
2 |
8 |
Off | 10 |
12 |
|
This is a 12 week schedule to get you ready
for a 25 mile ride. You should be able to trot at least 1/2 the distance of
your planned
ride 2 weeks before you compete.
Obviously the closer to the actual ride distance you can do at the planned
speed, the better
you will do in the competition.
During the last 2 weeks, slow canters can take place of some of the trotting.
Cantering will help
build up the horse up aerobically
but will lead to more lameness and muscle soreness if attempted before the
horse is strong
enough. Off days should never be
completely off or you're asking for muscle soreness. Turning your horse out for
a romp in the
field, doing ground work, a 1-2
mile walk in the woods, ponying, or longing are all good ways to loosen up
muscles.
If you're riding a green horse and planning
on competing in a novice ride (these are usually at a slower pace), use the
above
schedule as total miles ridden (even walking
counts) while preparing for a 15 mile ride.
Find a place where you can
actually measure 1 mile. Walk the mile and see how much time it takes, then
repeat at a slow trot,
working trot and extended trot and
even canter if you're up to it. This will give you an idea of how to pace on a
ride. The average
horse's walk is 3-3.5 mph, the
working trot is 6-8 mph and working canter is 8-10. Find out the average for
yours.
Remember to warm up and cool down
at a walk. Learn to take your horse's pulse. If he's in shape for what you're
asking, his
pulse will drop into the 40's
within 10 minutes of stopping. If he's being challenged, it should hit 60
within 10 minutes. Anything
more than that and you should
back off. Use his pulse to make sure you're not pushing your horse too fast.
All this conditioning is for the first ride;
it takes a lot less to keep a horse in shape than to get him there and you can
tailor your
training schedule to use
competitions as part of conditioning. Also make sure to take it easy the week before the ride itself.
Get in the habit of taking your horse's
pulse and noting his respirations before the ride, after you stop and every 10
minutes until
he's back to his normal. Values
that increase with time are trouble signs - throw a cooler over your horse,
listen for gut sounds
and take his temperature. Lack of
gut sounds and a temperature over 103 are both signs trouble signs. Dehydration
and
overheating are often involved. Soak the
horse down but keep his large muscles warm - unless it's very hot out, don't
put water
over his back or on the large
muscles of the shoulder and hindquarters. Put water on the bottom of the neck
and on the legs
and lower abdomen where the big
vessels are and keep him walking so he can flush the waste products out of his
muscles. If
the horse is really hot, make sure
you scrape off the excess water with a sweat scraper or it will act as an
insulating layer
retaining heat. If his
temperature is down and his pulse is still up, look for signs of colic,
lameness or soreness.
Give your horse every opportunity
to drink while on the trail. As long as you keep moving, don't worry about him
drinking too
much on the trail - usually the
problem is that the horse doesn't drink enough. Try adding Gatorade or Kool-aid
powder, some
sort of flavoring to the water at
home if your horse is finicky at rides. That way you can flavor the water at
rides to mask the
difference somewhat.
At the beginning levels, most horses don't
need electrolytes unless it's very hot and humid. As the speeds and distances
of
competition increase, many riders add
electrolytes to their routine. Make sure you try them at home so you can find
out which
ones are compatible with your
horse, horses can get upset stomachs from electrolytes just like people. Keep a
salt block (or
free salt) available at all times
at home and it's a good idea to bring one to the ride. Electrolytes used for
distance riding should
include calcium but that's getting
ahead of ourselves since most horses don't need them until you get to the 50
mile level.
Always make sure the horse is
drinking before giving electrolytes and make sure he has access to plenty of
fresh water
afterwards. The fitter your horse
gets, the fewer electrolytes he'll lose in sweat.
Train in the tack you'll be using for the
ride. Would you like to take a 10 mile hike in new shoes? Any type of saddle is
permissible
as long as it fits your horse. Look for dry spots on his back after riding,
they indicate areas of increased pressure.
Many distance riders use biothane
tack since it can be sponged or hosed off for easy cleaning. Nylon tack is
easily laundered.
A sponge or scoop on a string is a
way for you to pour water on your horse without dismounting - definitely
practice this at home
as it can be exciting the first
time you try it. The same goes for tying a slicker on your saddle and trying to
put it on (rides go on
rain or shine) or using a rump
rug for chilly mornings. Try to expose your horse to as many situations and
obstacles as possible
before the ride so it becomes old
hat by ride time. Practice riding both alone and with a group. During the ride
you'll want to keep
the pace you trained at, you may
not always find someone who rides like you do.
Regular
maintenance including worming, shots and visits from the farrier are important
throughout the year. You don't want to
come to a ride needing a reset -
while there is usually a farrier available, don't count on it and they seldom
trim like yours does
at home. You want to avoid any
sudden changes in angle right before the ride. Many horses are sore or feel a
little punky after
vaccinations so time them
accordingly. If you need a coggins or health certificate, leave plenty of time
to get them done.
Check the rules, but most rides allow no
medications of any kind including salves and liniments and especially bute and
banamine.
Discontinue any medications your horse may be on long enough in advance so they
won't show up on a drug test if
one is taken during the ride.
This includes herbal medications. OAATS
follows AERC's medications rule
Make a list (see page 6) of everything you'll
need for the ride to have on hand when you pack your trailer. You're bound to
forget
something but it's a start! You'll find that
distance riders are some of the friendliest people on earth and odds are
someone will
help you out if you've forgotten
something.
A quick note on nutrition - most distance
horses are on all the good grass hay they can eat, but you want to keep the
amount of
alfalfa down to less than 20%
between rides to enable the horse to use his stored calcium when he needs it.
Most are on just
enough grain (very little) to keep
their weight up. Alfalfa is good to
bring to longer rides as a calcium source at rest stops.
At the Ride
Even for local rides, plan on
getting there the day before to allow time to get your horse vetted in and set
up camp before dark.
Ride management and the judges
appreciate it if you register as soon as you get there. (They will appreciate
you more if you
have pre-entered and pre-paid so
they know how many to prepare for!) You will have to fill out some forms, sign
a release and
pay for the ride. Let the ride
secretary know if this is your first time or if you have any questions and
they'll help you out.
You will be given a score sheet.
You should mark the picture of the horse with a pencil to show any preexisting
boo-boos that
you want to make sure the judges
see. Since you are only scored on things that change during the ride, you will
want to make
sure they see everything that's already
there. Feel free to ask questions of the judge about anything they do or don't
see. They
are there to help you get through
the ride as well as to score.
Judges prefer to get all the vetting in done
at once or at least before dark. It's better for you also since lesions and way
of going
are much easier to see in broad
daylight than twilight and your horse and you will be much calmer than early in
the morning
when the rest of the riders are
getting ready to go out.
Horses that are too fractious to examine
will be considered 100% sound with no lesions and even preexisting lesions will
be
counted off at the end. They may also lose
manners points. If they are still too fractious at the end, they will get
maximum points
off for anything that cannot be
examined.
Any horses that are considered dangerous whether to people or other horses will be disqualified.
Your horse should trot (or gait) quietly
in-hand on a straight line and in circles. Some vets will allow you to longe
your horse if
that is easier for you.
Horses that are consistently lame (grade 3
or more, see page 12 for grading lameness) or
soreness that would worsen during
the ride or that
have an elevated temperature are not
allowed to start.
Known kickers should wear a red ribbon in their tail to warn others, stallions should wear a yellow ribbon.
The evening before the ride there is usually
a riders meeting. Be considerate to ride management and make every effort to be
there. During
the meeting, management will go over the trail, how it is marked, the time
allowed for completion and the
parameters for the ride.
Parameters include the pulse (and in some
regions the respiration) that a horse must come down to within 10 minutes (20
minutes for
some organizations) after being stopped in order to continue on the ride. If
the pulse is not down by 10 minutes,
usually it is retaken in another
10; if it is still not down, you are disqualified. (For example, in an OAATS
ride, 60 is a common
parameter - if you come into a vet
check with a pulse of 60 or under, you can continue, you will however lose
points for anything
over 44 as part of the scoring. If
the pulse is over 60, it will be taken again in 10 minutes and you will get
penalty points. If still
over 60, you are disqualified)
Starting time
for the ride will also be announced at the ride meeting. Riders are usually
sent out at 1/2 to 1 minute intervals; many
clubs allow you to start in
groups of 2 or 3 if you ask ahead of time. (Juniors - persons under 16 or 18
depending on the club --
are required to ride with an adult at all
times.) Riders often find it easier to set their watch to 12:00 at their start
time rather than
having to do the math and
calculate the ride time added to the start time. That way if they have 3 1/2
hours, they just have to be
in by 3:30.
P&R
(Pulse and Respiration) stops are announced - the number of them and the
location. UMECRA rules allow surprise P&R
checks. Most rides give you a card
when you come into the stop with your time on it. 10 minutes from that time,
you have to
present to the people taking
pulses. During that 10 minutes, you can put water on your horse to cool it (not
all organizations
allow this), use a blanket, take
off tack, let your horse eat or do whatever is needed (and allowed) to get your
horse's pulse as
low as possible. In CTR, no crews
are allowed which means you must do everything for your horse yourself
including walking,
cooling, feeding, hauling water
and hauling tack. Other people are allowed to act like a tree so you can tie up
your horse if you
have to use the facilities but that's about it. Other people are allowed to
bring food and water for the riders themselves. If ride management fills up water buckets,
they must do it for all riders equally.
Some P&R stops are vet checks as well -
you will be required to stop by the judges so they can quickly evaluate your
horse's
gait and metabolic status. You may
then be held for an additional rest period which will be announced during the
riders meeting.
If management is hauling water
buckets to the stops for the riders, it will be announced at the meeting -
that's why you always
want to bring extra buckets to
the ride. You will want enough extras to be able to send some out to all the
vet checks away from
camp and still have some for the
finish line and back at camp.
After the meeting, check on your horse, give him plenty of hay and water, make sure everything is ready for the morning, set your alarm clock and try to get some sleep.
You'll want to wake up 1-2 hours before ride time to give your horse a small meal and get ready.
Your ride time starts whether you're at the
starting line or not so try to be there early enough to check in and warm up
before you
start.
Ride at the pace you trained at.
Take the time penalties if you are going too
fast or slow for the set ride time - better that your horse comes in healthy
and sound
than on time.
This first ride is mostly to get used to everything so don't get too hung up on points.
Allow your horse to drink at every opportunity though they may be too keyed up in the beginning to drink much.
If your horse is tired, slow down! Don't get
sucked up by horses passing you at a pace you're not used to or ready for.
Remember, your
horse is ultimately your responsibility
and he's not acting right or is slightly off, you should "pull" the horse
yourself
rather than risk injury. There will always be another ride.
Trail courtesy requires you to ask permission
to pass on the left or right (be specific) of the horse in front of you. Look
for red
and yellow tail ribbons when
coming up on another horse and when waiting in lines at P&R stops and
vetting. Trail courtesy also suggests
that you ask before leaving horses that are drinking or having their pulses
taken as they may get excited when you
leave.
If you get pulled during the ride away from camp, ride management will make arrangements to haul your horse back to camp. Make sure your horse loads willingly in as many types of trailers as you can practice on.
If
it's going to be especially hot during a
ride, consider adding electrolytes to the horse's feed 3 days before the ride
as long as
you've practiced using them
before, otherwise you may just upset their stomachs.
Once back at camp, a final pulse
will be taken, then you will be required to trot out in hand again. Metabolics
will be checked
and then you will be allowed to
take your horse to your trailer to feed, untack and clean up before the
hands-on examination
takes place. Be kind to the
judges and present the horse as clean as possible. Depending on the region you
live in, this may
occur as soon as you're untacked
or an hour after your finish time depending on when the other riders come in.
This will take a
little longer than vet-in since
any new lesions should be pointed out to the rider along with any suggestions
for follow up care.
After that, the cards will be scored and awards handed out. You are considered in competition from the vet-in until after the vet-out is completed so NO medications, wraps, ice, hoses etc. are allowed until then - read the rules for specifics.
While at the ride, take time to
look around at all the different camping, hauling, saddling, cooling, etc.
methods being used and
see which may work well for you.
Feel free to ask questions - we are generally a friendly bunch! You may even
find a rider that
lives near you so you can train
together.
Once home, it is better to turn your horse
out so they can move around unless the ride vet recommends differently. Warm up
like on off
days (turn out, longing, ponying, hand walking or a 1-2 mile walk in the woods)
for 2 or 3 days after the ride, then you can get back to conditioning for
the next one.
What to Bring
The best way to prepare is to consider that
you will be pulling into a field with only water provided for your horse.
Practice at
home or nearby - camp over night and
take a ride the next day - it's amazing how many things you'll think of to make
your life
easier. Consider such things as
washing up, lack of restrooms, how to keep food cold, how to prepare meals,
what needs to be
available at the finish line, etc.
)
Horse (definitely!)
Feeding
Feed - for the meals you'll be camping (plus one or two more in case of emergency) Hay - they'll eat more than at home, at least a bale a day
Hay bag or net
Water buckets (at least six 5 gallon buckets)
Muck tub
Electrolytes and supplements
Salt
Carrots, apples, other goodies
Tack
Saddle
Bridle
Rump rug
Lead ropes (2) Halter(2)
Sweat Scraper Easy Boot
Camping
Charger and Batteries if used Shovel or rake for clean up
First Aid kit
including:
Coggins and health papers if needed
Or booboos if needed after the ride
Vet wrap, quilts, gauze, ointments
Bute and/or banamine - remember, do not use until
after the ride and get vet advice before using! Thermometer
Stethoscope
Vet checks (away
checks and/or finish line)
Scoop
and sponges
Sweat scraper
Easy
boot
You
Food - include food you can eat while
riding
like fruit or Powerbars
Caffeinated beverages - not all rides
offer morning Coffee
Watch (one that's easy to set and has a second hand)
Personal
hygiene items
Fanny pack (for
water and food during ride and cell phone if you ride with one)
Duct
tape - you never know!
Tissue
Grading Lameness
Grade III - evident consistently at a
trot in both circles and a straight line
Grade V - non-weight bearing